Milan Menswear Week Goes Alpine As Armani Enters New Era Without Its Founder

SUNTV Global Channel | January 17, 2026 | Milan

Milan Men’s Fashion Week officially opened on Friday with a strong Alpine and winter-sport influence, as designers unveiled collections inspired by snow, ice, and athletic luxury ahead of the Milan–Cortina Winter Olympics.

The season’s shows kicked off with bold, wintry presentations from Ralph Lauren and Dsquared2, setting the tone for a fashion week dominated by performance wear, craftsmanship, and cold-weather elegance.

Ralph Lauren Returns To Milan After 24 Years

Ralph Lauren made a high-profile return to Milan after a 24-year absence, blending classic American elegance with rugged winter styling. The collection featured tailored suits, tweeds, and formal wear toughened up with boots and cowboy footwear.

The show drew star power, with celebrities including Liam Hemsworth and Tony Leung Ka-fai in attendance.

Looking ahead to the Winter Olympics opening on February 6, Ralph Lauren — the official outfitter of the US Olympic team — infused the collection with Aspen-inspired winter motifs, including patterned knitwear and a striking blue ski suit accented with turquoise detailing.

Dsquared2 Delivers ‘Hot As Ice’ Statement

Dsquared2 followed with a dramatic autumn–winter 2026/27 collection described as “hot as ice.” Models appeared as daring holidaymakers clad in oversized parkas, dress-shaped puffer jackets, and provocative footwear.

The looks were completed with exaggerated fake-fur hats and bold styling choices. Canadian actor Hudson Williams, known for his role as a professional ice hockey player in the TV series Heated Rivalry, opened the show.

Winter Sports Influence Takes Over Milan

Beyond the runway, several brands embraced Alpine themes ahead of the Milan–Cortina Games. Armani’s sports line EA7, Italian label K-Way, and Chinese sportswear giant Li-Ning, sponsor of China’s national team, all scheduled winter-themed events across the city.

Earlier on Friday, Zegna designer Alessandro Sartori presented a refined, intimate showcase inspired by his personal wardrobe. Structured jackets paired with fluid trousers in earthy tones such as green and terracotta highlighted innovative fabrics and timeless tailoring.

“He’s created a wardrobe that is rooted in the past but clearly looks to the future,” said Carlo Capasa, head of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, describing the collection as a return to basics, craftsmanship, and sartorial excellence.

Italian Menswear Faces Economic Pressure

Capasa noted that the renewed focus on tailoring comes at a challenging time for Italian fashion. According to Confindustria Moda, the turnover of Italian menswear companies fell 2.1 percent in 2025, dropping to 11.2 billion euros.

While leather garments remain resilient, most other categories recorded declines. Exports — mainly to France, Germany, and the United States — dropped by two percent, while imports rose by 2.8 percent. China’s demand has slowed, pushing Italian brands to explore new markets in Latin America, the Middle East, and India.

Armani Prepares Historic First Show Without Giorgio Armani

Attention now turns to Giorgio Armani, whose menswear show is scheduled for Monday at the brand’s historic Milan headquarters. It will be the first Armani menswear show without founder Giorgio Armani, who passed away in September last year at the age of 91.

Although longtime collaborator Leo Dell’Orco has overseen menswear for years, the upcoming show marks a symbolic transition for the fashion house.

Dell’Orco hinted at subtle evolution rather than radical change, promising continuity with refreshed details. “We’ve revisited proportions, introduced new colours, and played with fabrics that change shade — symbols of change, done with utmost respect,” he said.

More Big Names Ahead

Fashion heavyweights Prada and Dolce & Gabbana are set to show over the weekend, while British designer Paul Smith returns to Milan after making his menswear debut there last June.

As Milan Menswear Fashion Week unfolds, the blend of winter sports influence, heritage tailoring, and industry reinvention signals a defining moment for Italian fashion on the global stage.

SUNTV Global Channel will continue to bring you highlights and exclusive updates from Milan.

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